Anti-wrinkle creams age skin more rapidly. DERMATOLOGY TIMES
Issue: Sept, 2000
London -- Scientists are now reporting that anti-wrinkle creams
containing alphahydroxy acids may actually cause the skin to age
more rapidly, according to an article on ABCNews.com.
The European Commission, the administrative arm of the European
Union, is considering placing tough, new limits on anti-wrinkle
creams because the AHAs present in the products may actually cause
the skin to age more rapidly than without, scientists said.
AHAs claim to exfoliate or rejuvenate the skin by peeling off the
outer layers to reveal the fresher skin beneath. They also claim
to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, to improve skin texture
and tone, and to improve skin condition in general.
However, both European and U.S. scientists are finding the chemicals
may actually be causing long-term damage instead.
Recently, the European Commission's Scientific committe on Cosmetic
Products made available a number of studies, including research
from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, about this issue.
The commission found that the chemicals appear to increase the
number of skin cells that are damaged, stimulate reddening, blistering
and burning and put users at greater risk of ultraviolet damage
from the sun.
"Improper use, too frequent use, and use by those with sensitive
skin -- this is where you see the damage," Nick Lowe, M.D.,
a dermatologist, told ABCNews. "Products using AHAs should
be administered in a clinic."
Products with AHAs are marketed as a "natural" way to
rejuvenate skin. Alphahydroxy acid ingredients may be listed as:
- glycolic acid
- malic acid
- citric acid
- glycolic acid + ammonium glycolate
- alpha-hydroxyoctanoic acid
- alpha-hydroxycaprylic acid
- hydroxycaprylic acid
- mixed fruit acid
- tri-alpha hydroxy fruit acids
- triple fruit acid
- sugar cane extract
- alphahydroxy and botanical complex
- L-alpha hydroxy acid
- glycomer in crosslinked fatty acids alpha nutrium (three AHAs)
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